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The Precision PT76GTS

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After talking about the Holset turbo from my former turbocharger build, I thought I would cover my current turbocharger and why I chose it.

Because I had a larger budget this time around I had more choices in which turbocharger I would choose.  That's not to say I couldn't have paid the same as I did prior for another, different, turbo but I really wanted to approach it from another angle.  The correct way to approach choosing a turbocharger is to identify how much power you hope to make.  If you approach the problem with a "budget" then you will only be able to think about horsepower/dollar, vs straight horsepower.  There is a HUGE different between diesel and gasoline turbos (not so much in the build quality but in terms of how they are sized).  I identified my intention of making (hopefully!) 900+ rwhp.  Yes, this is an absolute best case scenario that relies on many factors, but your ultimate deciding factor is how much air you can move through the motor.  Looking at the available units meant I was looking for north of a PT67 (in Precision naming convention, the number is the size of the compressor wheel).  If you look at how these units are rated, the amount of CFM they can flow is a direct relation to how much horsepower they support.  Motor-type and cylinder count is irrelevant because the assumption is that whatever you put it on will consume the air, so the turbocharger, when the limiting factor, will flow that amount of power.  However, these power figures are BHP (obviously) and so looking at various units, you can hone in your options.

In my case, a PT67 makes around 850 hp.  A PT70, 72, 74 are all slight increments upward.  Really what a 900 rwhp requirement means is with a 18% drivetrain loss (little on the high side), I need to make 1062 BHP.  That really means a PT74GTS would be JUST enough, in best case.  The next guy up is the PT76GTS featuring a 76mm inducer compressor wheel with a 102mm exducer - a Garrett GT4202R has a 74mm inducer and 102mm exducer for comparison.  On the turbine side you have your choice of a .81 A/R or .96 A/R v-band housing.  You also have a choice of a T04E housing (3" inlet), and 4 T04S housings.  I have the largest T4 housing with a ported inlet.  The outlet of this housing is 3" which is what my charge piping is.

 

Most people will not be interested in this type of unit.  They might be looking at something like a Precision 6262 or SC61 or so.  Maybe even smaller, like a T3/T04E .57 which spools very fast on a 2.5L M50TU.  You just need to identify PEAK horsepower you wish to run.  Once you have that, then you can work out the compressor maps on the turbochargers that qualify making that power.  Once you have that turbocharger selected, you can decide on turbine A/R and cover options if you have a choice.  It is very important that yuo choose the right unit or you will never be happy with it.  A lot of times a large turbo can feel laggy but when it does come on, it comes on big and you get a rush of power  A smaller turbo may make a car faster even if the peak power is lower simply because the powerband is wider.  But, obviously a 450 rwhp car will not be as fast as a 750 rwhp car in almost any case.  These are all things you need to consider before spending those hard earned dollars.

 

The Holset Turbocharger -- pro's and con's

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For a former build, I chose a Holset turbocharger.  These days, Holsets are a little more proven and people know which units to use over others.  However, several years ago much people in the european car scene were just getting into them.  Initially, the first benefit of chosing a Holset turbocharger is that they are CHEAP.  How cheap?  Well, browsing eBay you can find units for as little as $100 used or $450 NOS (New Old Stock).  In my case, I had chosen a Holset H1E which I had found as NOS for about $400.  Because my budget was around $2500 - $3000 (total), I felt that this would give the best bang for the buck.  Avoid eBay china brand knock-off turbos AT ALL COST.  Holset is cheap but typically genuine.  I have not seen people knocking off Holsets (yet).  However, if you search eBay and see things like a T70 or T61 for $250 shipped brand new... that's your first tip-off.  Further, if you see no markings on the compressor housings or tags anywhere on the unit that's your second tip-off.  Some people talk about their builds and will say "Well I picked up a China turbo just for now" - no!  If that unit is placed on your engine, forget "just for now" because you will be saving up to rebuild the entire engine when the compressor wheel shatters and your engine ingests aluminum shards.  Please guys - forget the China turbos!

That said, back to the Holset.  The units you want to use on typical BMW engines ranging from 2.5 to 3.2L of diplacement are the HX35 series.  I chose the H1E because it was new and cheap.  The difference in the HX vs H1 is about 7 years of technology.  For instance, the H1E has a 3" inlet (really more like 55mm where teh compressor inducer is!) while the HX35 support 4" inlets and even those which are 3" are truly 3" with anti-surge porting.  The compressor housings on the HX series are also a little bigger A/R.  I believe my H1E had a 2.0" outlet while HX35s will have 2.25 - 2.5".  Aside from the HX35, there are HX40, HX50/55, and HX60+.  I would recommend not going above an HX40 and really, I'd suggest if you want that higher flow then build a hybrid HX35/HX40.  The H1E is similar to the HX40 in general size, but lacks the more modern compressor housing, wheel, and turbine section.  It is possible to match an HX35 turbine section to an HX40 compressor section and have basically a "T3/T4" turbo.  Once again,  you are talking about modifying units so you may need to balance them and or have a performance shop perform the work, but the results is generally good.

Oh - also, when talking about turbocharger, most people will talk about housing sizes relative to A/R.  For instance a turbocharger might have a .81 A/R or a .68 A/R on the turbine side.  These numbers basically talk about the volume and general restriction of the turbine housing.  With less volume you get faster spool, but more exhaust restriction so if you're looking for maximum spool on a 2.5L M50TU then a .58 or .62 or something might work out, but realize in a T3 that might mean only 300 - 350 rwhp support.  Holsets do not follow this convention - they use cm^2.  For instance there are 8 cm^2, 10 cm^2, 12, 16, 20, and 22.  There are more, but those are the ones I've seen.  My holset is HUGE.  I think it was the 18 or 20 cm^2 T3 unit.  That means the turbine side is VERY large, while the H1E compressor housing is not that high of an A/R itself.  This is because these units are designed for diesel engines which have totally different VE (volumetric efficiency) qualities.  A 7.3L diesel engine displaces a lot of exhaust but since the operating RPM range is so narrow, the compressor housing is sized to provide a relatively linear flow.  Most diesels work on a pressure of around 10 - 20 PSI.  So, running one of these larger T3 turbos at 7 - 10 psi won't yield much on a gasoline motor since the flow is not typically adequate for what our 24v engines want.  Once street tuned, my car running the H1E was "ok".  It pulled well until about 6,000 RPM where it felt flat.  It was probably due to both my timing map and this turbocharger.  The turbo was able to keep the pressure up but the flow just didn't increase.  The turbine section was large, resulting in lag but free-flowing, and the compressor side was small resulting in a lack of torque rush - it felt fast, the car had easily 300 rwhp, but it just didn't pull like a train.

Here are some photos of my Holset - you can see just how large it was on the turbine, but how small it was on the compressor side.

Last Updated on Monday, 02 November 2009 03:27
 

Kicking off this new site

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Hey all -

I am starting a new site here because I feel like a lot of people ask me questions and I don't have time to answer.  I've been working on my car for a while now and many people check it out months ago, but then want an update and I have no idea what to tell them.  So, with this site I am hoping to document everything about my car and cars like it.  I registered Turbo525.com as a sort of "personal" site.  Of course we have New-Sweden.com and such, which are community-based sites and forums, but this site will be for my car alone.  I am going to outline what all I've done.  I think I will set it up in catagories on the left hand side like Engine Management, Engine, Drivetrain, etc. - that way people can just click on a section they want to know about and they can read any articles I've put there.  I think that'd work better than ust a pseudo chronological layout that will bounce to and from one topic to the next.  Hopefully with all this effort, others will be encouraged to build their 5-series or similar!

Last Updated on Sunday, 01 November 2009 21:56
 

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